Vetiveria Zizanioides (Vetiver) Root Oil
Vetiveria zizanioides · INCI Vetiveria Zizanioides Root Oil
Vetiver root oil contains antioxidant compounds, the vetivones chief among them, identified in laboratory studies of steam-distilled vetiver root oil, the same kind of oil we use. How much they contribute at a tenth of a percent in a finished cream has not been measured.
Vetiver is in the range for its antioxidant compounds, and it also gives a faint earthy scent. There is no synthetic fragrance in the range, and vetiver is named on the label like every other ingredient.
What it is
Vetiver is a tall tussock grass, a cousin of sorghum and lemongrass, and the aromatic part of it is underground. The leaves smell of very little. The roots, which grow downward in a dense fibrous mass rather than spreading sideways, hold the oil, and getting it out is slow work. The roots are dug, washed, dried, and then steam is passed through them for six hours or more, because the oil sits deep in the root tissue and has to diffuse out. A tonne of roots yields a few kilos of oil. It is one of the reasons vetiver is so expensive.
What comes off the still is thick, brown, and slow to pour, and it smells earthy and woody with a smoky edge that some people take a while to warm to. Chemically it is unusual. Most essential oils are dominated by one or two compounds, whereas vetiver runs to well over a hundred, almost all of them sesquiterpenes, with no single constituent accounting for much more than a tenth of the whole. That complexity is why perfumers use it as a base note and why it has taken analytical chemists decades to map it properly.
Ours is an organic oil from Java, distilled from roots grown there, and it goes into every product in the range at a tenth of a percent. On the label it is Vetiveria Zizanioides (Vetiver) Root Oil, marked with a star as organic.
What it does in our formulas
Vetiver brings a set of antioxidant compounds and a faint earthy scent.
Its antioxidant compounds
Laboratory studies of steam-distilled vetiver root oil identified alpha-vetivone, beta-vetivone and beta-vetivenene as antioxidant compounds. Those studies tested the same kind of oil, not our batch, and how much the compounds contribute at a tenth of a percent in a finished cream has not been measured.
Emerging evidenceIts scent
Earthy, woody and a little smoky, and faint at this level. It softens the sharper notes of the cold-pressed oils it sits alongside.
Well characterisedWhat the research does not show
Vetiver is sold as a calming, antimicrobial active, and its presence raises a fair question about fragrance.
Marketed as A calming, antimicrobial active
Marketed as Our products are fragrance-free, or free from essential oils
On the label and in the range
Vetiver appears in every one of our formulations, near the end of the ingredient list, at a tenth of a percent. On the label it reads by its INCI name, shown with its common name, and marked with a star as organic. The exact percentage is published on each product page.
Is it suitable for me?
Vetiver is an essential oil, and essential oils can cause allergic reactions in a small number of people. It is in every Biotaderm formula, so there is no version without it. If your skin reacts easily, or you know you react to fragrance or essential oils, patch test first.
Vetiver is an essential oil, and essential oils can cause allergic reactions in a small number of people. It is in every Biotaderm formula, so there is no version without it. If your skin reacts easily, or you know you react to fragrance or essential oils, patch test first.
The research behind this page
We review the published literature. We do not conduct the studies below.
- Burger P, Landreau A, Watson M, et al. Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New? Medicines 2017;4(2):41. →