Antioxidant compoundsEssential oilIn every formula

Vetiveria Zizanioides (Vetiver) Root Oil

Vetiveria zizanioides · INCI Vetiveria Zizanioides Root Oil

Vetiver root oil contains antioxidant compounds, the vetivones chief among them, identified in laboratory studies of steam-distilled vetiver root oil, the same kind of oil we use. How much they contribute at a tenth of a percent in a finished cream has not been measured.

Vetiver is in the range for its antioxidant compounds, and it also gives a faint earthy scent. There is no synthetic fragrance in the range, and vetiver is named on the label like every other ingredient.

Vetiver, the grass whose roots give the range its earthy scent.
Vetiver, the grass whose roots give the range its earthy scent.

What it is

Vetiver is a tall tussock grass, a cousin of sorghum and lemongrass, and the aromatic part of it is underground. The leaves smell of very little. The roots, which grow downward in a dense fibrous mass rather than spreading sideways, hold the oil, and getting it out is slow work. The roots are dug, washed, dried, and then steam is passed through them for six hours or more, because the oil sits deep in the root tissue and has to diffuse out. A tonne of roots yields a few kilos of oil. It is one of the reasons vetiver is so expensive.

What comes off the still is thick, brown, and slow to pour, and it smells earthy and woody with a smoky edge that some people take a while to warm to. Chemically it is unusual. Most essential oils are dominated by one or two compounds, whereas vetiver runs to well over a hundred, almost all of them sesquiterpenes, with no single constituent accounting for much more than a tenth of the whole. That complexity is why perfumers use it as a base note and why it has taken analytical chemists decades to map it properly.

Ours is an organic oil from Java, distilled from roots grown there, and it goes into every product in the range at a tenth of a percent. On the label it is Vetiveria Zizanioides (Vetiver) Root Oil, marked with a star as organic.

What it does in our formulas

Vetiver brings a set of antioxidant compounds and a faint earthy scent.

01

Its antioxidant compounds

Laboratory studies of steam-distilled vetiver root oil identified alpha-vetivone, beta-vetivone and beta-vetivenene as antioxidant compounds. Those studies tested the same kind of oil, not our batch, and how much the compounds contribute at a tenth of a percent in a finished cream has not been measured.

Emerging evidence
02

Its scent

Earthy, woody and a little smoky, and faint at this level. It softens the sharper notes of the cold-pressed oils it sits alongside.

Well characterised

What the research does not show

Vetiver is sold as a calming, antimicrobial active, and its presence raises a fair question about fragrance.

Marketed as A calming, antimicrobial active
In the laboratory, vetiver oil shows antimicrobial activity, and there are plausible ideas about how it might work on skin. A systematic review of the literature found twenty-five studies, and none was a trial on human skin. Every result came from a dish, an animal, or a formulation on a bench, and most of it used far more vetiver than we do.
Marketed as Our products are fragrance-free, or free from essential oils
They are not. Vetiver is an essential oil, and it is in every product we make, including those for Dry Sensitive skin. It is in the range for its antioxidant compounds and also gives a faint earthy scent. There is no synthetic fragrance in the range, and vetiver is named on the label like every other ingredient.

On the label and in the range

Vetiver appears in every one of our formulations, near the end of the ingredient list, at a tenth of a percent. On the label it reads by its INCI name, shown with its common name, and marked with a star as organic. The exact percentage is published on each product page.

Is it suitable for me?

Vetiver is an essential oil, and essential oils can cause allergic reactions in a small number of people. It is in every Biotaderm formula, so there is no version without it. If your skin reacts easily, or you know you react to fragrance or essential oils, patch test first.

Vegan-friendly

Vetiver is an essential oil, and essential oils can cause allergic reactions in a small number of people. It is in every Biotaderm formula, so there is no version without it. If your skin reacts easily, or you know you react to fragrance or essential oils, patch test first.

Every formulation published
Every formulation published
Naturally derived
Naturally derived
Vegan and cruelty-free
Vegan and cruelty-free

The research behind this page

We review the published literature. We do not conduct the studies below.

  1. Burger P, Landreau A, Watson M, et al. Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New? Medicines 2017;4(2):41. →
Found in every Biotaderm formulation Shop the range