Essential oilScentIn every formula

Vetiveria Zizanoides (Vetiver) Root Oil

Vetiveria zizanioides · INCI Vetiveria Zizanioides Root Oil

Vetiver root oil carries a set of identified antioxidant compounds, the vetivones chief among them, and the studies that found them tested the same steam-distilled root oil we use rather than some adjacent material. That is rarer than it sounds.

No ingredient is added purely for fragrance. Vetiver is the one essential oil in the range, and it is named on the label like everything else.

Vetiver, the grass whose roots give the range its earthy scent.
Vetiver, the grass whose roots give the range its earthy scent.

What it is

Vetiver is a tall tussock grass, a cousin of sorghum and lemongrass, and the aromatic part of it is underground. The leaves smell of very little. The roots, which grow downward in a dense fibrous mass rather than spreading sideways, hold the oil, and getting it out is slow work. The roots are dug, washed, dried, and then steam is passed through them for six hours or more, because the oil sits deep in the root tissue and has to diffuse out. A tonne of roots yields a few kilos of oil. It is one of the reasons vetiver is so expensive.

What comes off the still is thick, brown, and slow to pour, and it smells earthy and woody with a smoky edge that some people take a while to warm to. Chemically it is unusual. Most essential oils are dominated by one or two compounds, whereas vetiver runs to well over a hundred, almost all of them sesquiterpenes, with no single constituent accounting for much more than a tenth of the whole. That complexity is why perfumers use it as a base note and why it has taken analytical chemists decades to map it properly.

Ours is an organic oil from Java, distilled from roots grown there, and it goes into every product in the range at between one and three parts in a thousand. On the label it is Vetiveria Zizanioides Root Oil.

What it does in our formulas

Two things, honestly stated.

01

Its scent

Earthy, woody, a little smoky, and quiet. It softens the sharper notes of the cold-pressed oils it sits alongside.

Well characterised
02

Its constituents

Alpha and beta-vetivone and beta-vetivenene are the compounds the research picks out, and the oil we buy contains them. What they do at a tenth of a percent in a finished cream has not been established, so we make no claim for them.

Emerging evidence

What the research does not show

Two things to be straight about.

Marketed as A calming, antimicrobial, active
This is where we have to be careful, because there is something real underneath it. In the laboratory, vetiver oil does show antimicrobial activity, and there are plausible ideas about how it might work on skin. But a systematic review of the literature turned up twenty-five studies, and not one of them was a trial on human skin. Every result came from a dish, an animal, or a formulation on a bench, and most of it used far more vetiver than we do. Interesting is not the same as demonstrated, and we would rather wait.
Marketed as Our products are fragrance-free, or free from essential oils
They are not, and we will never say they are. Vetiver is an essential oil and it is currently in every product we make, including the ones for dry sensitive skin. What we can say, and do, is not add any ingredient purely for fragrance and that there is no synthetic fragrance in any of them.

So: vetiver essential oil, in every product. If that is a problem for your skin, we would rather you knew before you bought something than after.

On the label and in the range

Vetiver appears in every one of our formulations, near the end of the ingredient list, at between a tenth and a quarter of a percent. On the label it reads by its INCI name, and it is marked to show it is an essential oil, because you should be able to see that at a glance. The exact percentage is published on each product page.

Is it suitable for me?

Vetiver is an essential oil, and essential oils can cause allergic reactions in a small number of people. It is currently in every Biotaderm formula, so there is no version without it. If your skin reacts easily, or you know you react to fragrance or essential oils, patch test first.

Vegan-friendly

Vetiver is an essential oil, and essential oils can cause allergic reactions in a small number of people. It is in every Biotaderm formula, so there is no version without it. If your skin reacts easily, or you know you react to fragrance or essential oils, patch test first.

Formulation Clear
Formulation Clear
Natural
Natural
Cruelty free
Cruelty free

The research behind this page

We review the published literature. We do not conduct the studies below.

  1. Burger P, Landreau A, Watson M, et al. Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New? Medicines 2017;4(2):41.
  2. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. Opinion on the safety of fragrance ingredient Acetylated Vetiver Oil, SCCS/1599/18 (2019).
Found in every Biotaderm formulation Shop the range