Lactic Acid

Lactic Acid

By Richard Bence
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Lactic acid is a naturally occurring alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that makes up 10-12% of your skin's natural moisturizing factor [1]. This makes it a particularly compatible ingredient for skin health, working through multiple mechanisms to improve skin appearance and function. Research shows it can enhance moisture retention, gently exfoliate dead skin cells, and help maintain optimal skin pH [2].

Clinical studies demonstrate that lactic acid, particularly when combined with ceramides, can significantly improve skin barrier function and hydration [3]. In a 14-day controlled study, researchers found that a lactic acid and ceramide formulation provided measurable improvements in skin moisturization and natural exfoliation processes. These benefits were particularly notable for those with dry skin (Types 1 and 2), though the researchers emphasized the importance of starting with lower concentrations for sensitive skin variants [3].

For those with balanced or oily skin (Types 3 and 4), lactic acid's exfoliating properties can help maintain clear pores while its humectant properties ensure the skin doesn't become dehydrated [1]. However, those with sensitive skin variants (Types 1 and 5) should proceed with caution, as research indicates approximately 29% of individuals may experience stinging sensations with lactic acid [4]. Interestingly, recent microbiome research suggests this sensitivity might be related to decreased levels of beneficial bacteria, particularly Staphylococcus epidermidis, highlighting the complex relationship between our skin's microbiome and its response to skincare ingredients [4].

When it comes to aging concerns, clinical evidence supports lactic acid's ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles through enhanced cell turnover and improved hydration [1]. However, it's crucial to note that lactic acid can increase sun sensitivity, making proper sun protection essential [1]. For optimal results, skincare formulations should contain no more than 10% lactic acid with a pH around 3.5, and benefits are often enhanced when combined with complementary ingredients like ceramides and sodium lactate [1,3].

References:

  1. "Lactic Acid." Formula Botanica Technical Document, 2022.

  2. Nojiri H, Ishida K, Yao X, Liu W, Imokawa G. "Amelioration of lactic acid sensations in sensitive skin by stimulating the barrier function and improving the ceramide profile." Archives of Dermatological Research, 2018; DOI: 10.1007/s00403-018-1833-9.

  3. Draelos ZD, Hall S, Munsick C. "A 14-day Controlled Study Assessing Qualitative Improvement with 15% Lactic Acid and Ceramides in Skin Moisturization and Desquamation." Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2020; 13(8):E54-E58.

  4. Zheng Y, Liang H, Li Z, Tang M, Song L. "Skin microbiome in sensitive skin: the decrease of Staphylococcus epidermidis seems to be related to female lactic acid sting test sensitive skin." Journal of Dermatological Science, 2020; DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2019.12.004.

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