pH keeperSkin's own acidityIn every formula

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate · INCI Sodium Citrate

Of all the ingredients on our label, this is the one we most underestimated. It has no scent, no colour, no story, and it does not sound like anything. What it does is hold the product at the acidity your skin needs, and that is a bigger deal than most of the things brands put on the front of a bottle.

It holds the product at the acidity your skin actually wants, and that turns out to matter more than almost anything else on this list.

Sodium citrate, the buffer that keeps every formula at the pH the skin prefers.
Sodium citrate, the buffer that keeps every formula at the pH the skin prefers.

What it is

Healthy skin is mildly acidic, sitting at around pH 5. This is not a quirk. It is how the skin works. The enzymes that build the barrier's lipids only function properly in acid conditions. The enzymes that break the barrier down speed up as things turn alkaline. And the microbes you want on your skin prefer acid, while the ones you do not prefer neutral: the research shows Staphylococcus epidermidis, the helpful resident, grows contentedly at pH 4.7, while Staphylococcus aureus, which you would rather not encourage, does best nearer neutral. Even the antimicrobial peptide your own skin makes works far better in acid than out of it.

Which means the pH of anything you leave on your skin is not a technicality. A cream that sits at the wrong acidity is nudging your barrier enzymes, your lipid production and your microbiome in the wrong direction, quietly, every day. Ours is built to sit where your skin already is, and sodium citrate is the buffer that holds it there, not just on the day it was made but through a shelf life, as things shift and settle.

It has a second job as well. Trace metals get into every formula, and they catalyse the oxidation that turns oils rancid. Sodium citrate binds them up. That keeps the oils good, and since oxidised oils are irritating to skin, it keeps them from bothering you too.

What it does in our formulas

Two things, and the first is quietly one of the most important decisions in the whole formula.

01

It keeps the product at your skin's own acidity

Healthy skin sits at about pH 5, a little acidic, and it needs to. The enzymes that build the barrier's lipids only work in acid conditions. The enzymes that break the barrier down work faster as things turn alkaline. And the microbes you want, S. epidermidis among them, thrive in acid, while the ones you do not, S. aureus in particular, prefer it neutral. A cream at the wrong pH nudges all three the wrong way. Sodium citrate is the buffer that holds ours where it should be, and keeps it there as the product ages.

Well characterised
02

It stops the oils turning, which spares your skin

Trace metals get into any formula, from the water, from the raw materials, and they speed up the oxidation that turns oils rancid. Sodium citrate binds them so they cannot. That protects the product, and it protects you too: oxidised oils are irritating to skin, so the oil that does not turn is the oil that does not bother you.

Well characterised

What the research does not show

Sodium citrate is too plain to attract much nonsense, but there are two claims worth handling, and one of them is a claim we could have made ourselves.

Marketed as A citrus-derived brightening active
You will see citrate salts dressed up this way now and then, on the strength of the word citrus. Sodium citrate does not brighten anything. What it does is hold a pH, which is a duller sentence and a more useful ingredient.
Marketed as A chelator that shields your skin from pollution
This one we could make, and we are not going to. Binding metals in the formula is well understood and it is what this ingredient is for. The leap from there to protecting your face from urban pollution is a long one, and the evidence for it is thin. We claim the oils it protects, and we leave the pollution story to the people who need it.

So: an ingredient that holds the product at the acidity your skin already wants, and keeps the oils from turning while it does. It will never be on the front of a bottle. It is one of the most consequential things in it.

On the label and in the range

Sodium citrate appears in every one of our formulations, and it sits higher in the list than you might expect for something so anonymous. That is deliberate: holding a pH steady over a shelf life takes a real amount rather than a token pinch, and it also works alongside the gluconolactone, which needs a mildly acidic product to preserve properly. Skin pH, preservative pH and oil stability all want the same thing, which is a piece of luck we will happily take. The exact percentage is published on each product page.

Is it suitable for me?

Sodium citrate has been assessed by the independent expert panel that reviews cosmetic ingredients and found safe as used, and it has a long record as a food additive besides. It suits a vegan routine, sits comfortably on sensitive skin, and carries no restrictions under UK or EU cosmetic law.

Vegan-friendlySensitive-skin suitableNo known safety concerns

As with anything new, if your skin reacts easily it is worth patch testing first.

Formulation Clear
Formulation Clear
Science led
Science led
Microbiome friendly
Microbiome friendly

The research behind this page

We review the published literature. We do not conduct the studies below.

  1. Proksch E. pH in nature, humans and skin. J Dermatol 2018;45(9):1044-1052.
  2. Lambers H, Piessens S, Bloem A, Pronk H, Finkel P. Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora. Int J Cosmet Sci 2006;28(5):359-370.
  3. Fiume MM, Heldreth BA, Bergfeld WF, et al. Safety Assessment of Citric Acid, Inorganic Citrate Salts, and Alkyl Citrate Esters as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol 2014;33(2 Suppl):16S-46S.
Found in every Biotaderm formulation Shop the range